Almost every good garden planning book will talk about the importance of having good “bones” in the garden, which basically refers to including structural and long-lived trees and shrubs. As someone who has always loved perennials, this was something that didn’t interest me very much. My garden in Pennsylvania was at the mercy of huge evergreen trees and little else in the way of structure. I lived with it because I didn’t want to cut down a tree or two just to have more sun. Besides, back east summers can be brutally hot and shade was something we would seek around 11:00 AM each day. And I certainly didn’t want to plant any more trees or shrubs to encroach upon the little plot I had to work with.
But upon moving to Tillamook County over 20 years ago into a home that had been previously owned by a gardener, I realized how nice those bones can be. The yard was rimmed with large shrubs (Escallonia, Choysia and heathers) and mature trees (alder and Sitka spruce). They were also placed throughout the grounds, not just around the edges. In truth, the yard had been sadly neglected as the gardener aged, and bones were about all that was left except for ivy and weeds.
It was quite a chore to clean the gardens and figure out what to do next. Most of the lawn came out and I started to design flower beds. In the meantime, I did some research and made some observations as to other large plants that would not only do well in a coastal garden but be pleasing to the eye. One of the first ones I hit upon was the delicate and lovely Hinoki (false) cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa). These are very elegantly shaped and now come in an assortment of colors and sizes. It is a Japanese native, but as such, does well here. I love the fan-shaped foliage and the dark green colors, but there are now some nicely variegated ones as well.
I also started looking into dwarf conifers. At the time, no one was talking about the dwarf varieties, but now you can find articles and books everywhere. The second conifer I found was a Mugo pine (Pinus mugo). It’s important to get the dwarf variety of these wonderful shrubs as the larger varieties can get as tall as 30 feet in the right conditions. By candling, I keep mine at a nice compact size. “Candling” is simply breaking off the new tips at about half their length in the early spring when they are still tender. I understand this technique is called this because the new growth is upright and looks like candles.
Junipers have gotten a bad rap in the recent past, but they do make good, basic planting shrubs. I like creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis) because it grows in a wide range of conditions including seaside areas. This plant is good for erosion-control on a sloped, beach-y area as it likes to be well drained. Full sun is best if you can manage it. The foliage comes in a wide variety of colors from blue-green to golden tipped. Junipers are generally easy and quick growing.
Another very pretty tree is the Norway spruce (Picea abies). The pyramidal shape tolerates wind which is important in Tillamook. They also have shiny foliage. I prefer the variety called ‘Perry’s Gold’ as its foliage is tipped in bright yellow. Full size Norway spruces grow quite large, so be sure you find the dwarf varieties.
Although some articles I’ve seen recommend arborvitae (Thuja varieties) and Colorado blue spruce (Piceapungens), I personally would stay away from these plants. The blue spruce like it much colder than it traditionally gets on the coast. As for arborvitae… well, that’s just a personal dislike with no good reason except that spider mites and deer seem to like them more than I do.
Placement of small conifers throughout a garden can lend interest through the year. They won’t lose leaves in the fall, can look colorful all year, and need very little tending other than a cleanup of old needles now and then. Don’t try any severe pruning as conifer limbs don’t grow back the way woody perennials do and you risk having bald spots. Instead buy a plant that will naturally grow to the size and shape you need for your space.
Be aware that some of the small conifers for sale in nurseries may not be true dwarfs but simply slow growers. That may work in your garden if you have space that won’t need filling for 10 or 15 years. I am afraid I am too impatient for that and prefer the instant gratification of buying a plant that is designed for a smaller space.
By adding some “bones” to your garden plan, you will find your annuals and perennials will have a nice backdrop for their blooms. And who knows, you may decide flowers are just icing on the cake and the bones are the real treat.
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